Sew & Tell

Sew & Tell | Butterick B6385 | The First Coat

My timing of this post is something else. Here we are, spring is pretty much here, flowers are blossoming.. the sun is staying out a little longer than a minute plus the evenings are getting lighter… and here I come with a post about my first winter coat! It is overdue but this has to get a mention because of the work that has gone into it. Here is Butterick B6385.

I’ve mentioned before that I am slow sewist, but this project right here really slowed me down. This was something I really wanted to get my hands stuck into and involve learning new techniques to pass on to later projects. Let’s move on to the details:

Pattern/View:

Fitted lined coat that have princess seams, back yoke with forward shoulder seams, two-piece sleeve, collar and pocket variations. I chose view B with the funnel collar. I cut out size 6 which is the smallest size.

Fabric:

I chose a white and black plaid striped wool. I thought this colour would be great to coordinate with other outfits I have in my wardrobe. I decided to line my coat with nothing other than fur. Yes you read that correctly.

Construction:

This was the interesting part, there were a lot of pieces to cut out that I didn’t realise made a coat what it is. It took a long time to trace them all out and cut it out individually. The most time I spent on this project was on pattern matching the stripes to fall in the right place. There are many different techniques to do this and if you are interested, I followed Erica Bunker’s tip. If you follow her on Instagram she has the information right there. Brittany J Jones also has a video on her Instagram page where she shows you how to line your stripes up perfectly. I still have a long way to go in matching it 100% but this result I have is very good, I’ll always keep trying to get better. Another interesting part to this project was the lining. I decided to be extra here and a fur lining. This was inspired by a black coat a friend of mine had she got from River Island. I wanted something that would keep me warm so off I went to buy my lining. I have never worked with fur so that was an eye opener. It is a low pile so that it is thin enough to get over me and keep me cosy. Boy fur is no joke. If you want to work with it be prepared to be covered from head to toe in it. Have a vacuum near by. I’m not sure if adding a lining like this was the smartest idea due to the fact that it has added bulk in a lot of areas. I had to bag the lining throught the bottom of the coat which as result in some pulling because of the weight. Next time I’d probably go with a lighter fleece fabric.

Alterations:

There were a couple of changes I made with this coat. If you look at the photos, you’ll see there are no buttons.

What I didn’t realise is that once the coat starts taking shape, the fabric get bulkier and difficult to feed through the machine. This became obvious when it was time to add the buttons which on the instructions tell you to do this step last. Because you have two layers of fabric and interfacing sitched together, my machine struggled to sew the buttonholes. What I should have done/will do is sew the buttonholes first and make them button bound.

The pattern also requires that you put in shoulder pads, which I omitted because of the bulkiness of my fur lining. If I were to sew this up again, I would definitely add them in to give the coat structure and definition.

Overall, for a coat pattern, this one is really good. The instructions were clear to me and I didn’t struggle like I thought I would. I would recommend this pattern to be aimed towards the intermediate sewer and above. If you are an advanced beginner and want to take your sewing up to the next level then go right on ahead! It is a lot of work and I would encourage you to read those instructions again and again to make sure you understand the techniques.

 

 

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