Sew & Tell

Ankara Jumpsuit | Vogue 9160

My my, it has been quiet on here hasn’t it? Summer is officially here in all its glory and I’ve been doing all that I can to make the most of it. And that is all things sewing! I’ve been keeping my hands busy in projects over the last couple of months and I’m ready to show you one of the first from the pack. This is Vogue 9160.

I’ll say it here now and I’ll probably say it again to sum it up, but I loooove this jumpsuit! A lot of work went into this to make it look like it does now. So let’s talk about it.

 

Pattern adjustments:

  • Bodice graded from size 6 in bust to 12 in waist
  • Neckline increased by 1″
  • Narrow shoulder adjustment
  • Crotch length adjustment

 

The fabric used is an beautiful blue based Ankara from Stampe Africane.

 

I went for View B which is the mock wrap top and straight leg and I graded from size 6 in the bust area to 12 at the waist.

 

 

In order to check the fit of the jumpsuit, I made 2.5 muslins of both the bodice and the shorts view, which I recommend you do too. For the first muslin, I increased the wrap neckline by 1/2″ for a little more coverage over the bust. I did have some gaping so I pinched that out and transferred that to the pattern.

 

 

I cut the shorts in a straight 12, however I found the crotch too low in the front and it was too high and tight around the hips. A size 14 was what I needed, which meant I was going to need to get another pattern envelope with the higher size ranges (12-20) fortunately I did have this to hand and went back to work.

 

 

For muslin #2 and 2.5 the excess fabric I removed fixed the gaping and I shortened the front rise by 1/2″ and added it to the back rise which helped a little bit, but after wearing it and referring to my ‘Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen, I feel like a full seat adjustment would’ve worked better since my backside is quite round and my hips are also a little wide. Or at least scoop out the crotch depth for more room.

 

 

As I was going sleeveless, there were adjustments I needed to make as the bodice to account for this. For the first time I did a narrow shoulder adjustment by 1/2″ which I’m so happy I did as the bodice sits so comfortably on my shoulder.

 

Instead of finishing the neckline with a facing and to finish the armhole, I decided to create my own bias tape! This is something I’ve tried and failed to do before so to do this gives the jumpsuit a really nice touch.

 

 

So did I mention that I love this jumpsuit? 😂 This gave me more than enough opportunities to analyse fit and new techniques to achieve that. The instructions are very straightforward and easy to put together. I definitely intend to return this pattern and has been added to the small but precious TNT pile.

 

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